NATIVE PLANT GERANIUM MACULATUM

I have not covered all of Connecticut's invasive plants yet, even so I think it may be time to change the focus to some native plants; plants we can keep an eye out for and possibly help to protect by removing encroaching invasives. 

There are so many beautiful native plants it is a bit difficult to find a starting place! I think the best method for making that decision is to follow the months of the calendar, so I will start with some of the first flowers we are likely to encounter when the spring season is once again upon us. Writing about these plants will also help me keep the grueling winter months that lie ahead in perspective.  Keep in mind it is not legal to remove these plants or their seeds from the wild without a permit. Here is a link that explains why. https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/ethics/index.shtml .  

It is still entirely possible to grow native plants though, as there are nurseries that have procured these plants legally.  They propagate them and offer them for sale.  Here is a link that includes a list of native plants and suppliers.  This 2025 list was compiled by UCONN.  2025 Connecticut Native Tree, Shrub, and Perennial Availability List

The first plant that comes to my mind is wild geranium or Geranium maculatum.  It is a very ornamental native perennial plant that grows prolifically all over our town during the first spring months and even into early summer.  It is a plant so attractive that you would think had been cultivated, and there are slightly fancier cultivars of it, but in its unadulterated form it is a native plant. It is native not only to Connecticut but also to many states in eastern North America.  Here in Scotland, it is often found adorning woodland edges where there is rich humus type soil, and shade or dappled sunlight.  Wild geranium is a low growing plant with deeply divided leaves. When in bloom it is covered in pink flowers, followed of course by abundant seed pods.  Though left to its own devices, the plant often frequents semi-shaded spots it will also tolerate a location that receives full sun so long as the soil remains moist.  The flowers are host to a multitude of bee and beetle pollinators. These insects in turn provide food for mourning doves, robins, juncos, and even quail.  Deer will occasionally browse the foliage, and chipmunks have been known to fill their cheeks with the seeds. So, this pretty little native plant feeds a good size crowd!

Wild geranium behaves well in a garden.  It spreads, though gradually, via its rhizomes.  Of course, it also spreads by seed.  The seeds are contained within a sharp beak shaped pod.  The seed pods give the plant another of its common names crane's bill geranium.  The cleverly designed seedpod has the capability of catapulting the ripened seed a good distance eventually creating another stand of the plant.

 

Dame's Rocket AKA Hesperis matronalis

The more I add entries to this blog, the more I realize I may not be the right person to be writing it!  I'm afraid I have a fondness for a several of these plants presently considered invasive.  I'll explain.  We've owned several period homes over the years, and when we moved to each one, I searched each property for any remnants of garden plants that may have been planted and survived over the centuries.  For years I have been poring through antique garden catalogs from the 19th century, as well as any gardening books, both old and new, that referred to plants grown in past centuries for both their ornamental appeal as well as their food value. I still remember sitting in front of a fire one winter about twenty-five years ago perusing a seed catalogue from a Union, Connecticut company called Select Seeds.  It was a modern-day catalogue that offered a variety of seeds for antique ornamental plants.  Next to each antique plant represented, there was a little blurb about the plant's history.  Because of its fragrance, abundant showy flowers in shades of lavender to white, and its early history of arrival on our shores, Dame's rocket is one of the seed packets I selected.  Truthfully, I'm surprised the plant was not already growing on that 18th century property as the plant was imported by Europeans arriving on our soil way back in the 17th century.  It has naturalized on my present property.  I did not plant it here.  It is a possibility that it has been growing here since our present house was built in the last quarter of the 1700's.

Hesperis matronalis is a plant with about a million different common names, Dame's Rocket is the one most commonly used in the U.S.  It is a biannual plant said to be native to southern Europe with a range from Spain to Turkey.  It is now naturalized through much of Europe, the US and Canada.  The word Dame's was likely taken from Damascus, a Syrian city near Turkey, and rocket from the French word roquette a referral to the plant being in the cabbage or Brassicaceae family. The Hesperis portion of the Latin name is a reference to the plant's fragrance which becomes stronger in the evening. Hespera is the Greek word for evening.  Dame's rocket is in the mustard family, another cruciferous vegetable like broccoli.  Many parts of Hesperis matronalis are considered edible. Here is a link to a site called Forager Chef should that aspect of this plant be of interest to you https://foragerchef.com/dames-rocket-hesperis-matronalis/ 

This plant has had ample time in its over three hundred years presence on our shores to escape gardens and disrupt native plant growth.  It has naturalized in many areas.  It is a biannual meaning the first year it grows as a rosette of foliage.  It is early to emerge and the reddish color of its foliage upon emergence provides the plant with protection from the cold.  In its second year of growth the plant produces flowers and seeds.  Its growth very early in the season allows it to crowd out native species.  As with garlic mustard, it is a highly prolific seeder.  A single plant is capable of producing 20,000 seeds!  In Connecticut this plant is considered invasive, and it has been banned.  It is presently not legal to sell or to transport this plant.  It is considered invasive in other states as well.  The seeds for Dame's rocket may well be contained in some wildflower seed mixes, so take care not to inadvertently introduce this plant to your landscape in that manner.

The plant is easy to spot in the months of May and June when it is in bloom.  Be careful not to confuse it with native phlox which it resembles.  By observing the details, it is easy to distinguish them from each other. Dame's rocket has four flower petals versus phlox which has five petals.  When observing the foliage on dame's rocket, you will notice the lance shaped leaves grow in alternating fashion along the stem versus phlox which leaves grow in opposition or directly across from one another along the stem. Another non-native plant it resembles is Lunaria annua which is commonly called honesty, silver dollar, or money plant.  Lunaria annua has heart shaped leaved versus the lanceolate formed ones found on dame's rocket.   Lunaria annua also has those silvery round flat seed pods sometimes used in flower arrangements.  It too is a plant in the mustard family.  Lunaria annua is not considered invasive in Connecticut.

HOW TO REMOVE

Hesperis matronalis is easy to pull out by the root especially after a good soaking rain.  It is best to bag the pulled plants in a large heavy duty trash bag and bring the bagged plants to the landfill where they will be burned.  Do not compost them as they will grow in your compost pile and spread from there.  A follow-up pulling will likely be necessary the next several years, but over time the plant will disappear from your landscape.  This same method of removal works for garlic mustard. 

Should you choose to use an herbicide, it would be best to use a selective herbicide that will not harm grasses.  Apply it later in the fall months.  A late in the season application will help prevent the spraying of desirable native plants most of which die back before dame's rocket.

 

Yellow flag iris AKA Iris pseudacorus

Yellow flag iris is native to Europe, Western Asia and Northwest Africa.  It was brought to the United States, as an ornamental plant, during the second half of the 1800's. Soon after its introduction the plant began to escape cultivation.  It was a desirable ornamental loaded with cheery bright yellow flowers that that unfurl in late spring. It is also a very hardy plant with a tough fibrous almost woody rhizomatous root system. The plant spreads vigorously from the root as well as from the multitudes of disk-shaped seeds contained within its numerous seed pods.  In the right conditions, especially in a wet bog like setting, the plant can reach a height of four to five feet.  

When I first saw this plant on the Connecticut Invasive plant list, I was in denial.  I maintain an island of flowers along a roadside.  When I began planting the island with flowers some 20 years ago, I wanted to plant a variety of hardy perennial plants that I thought would be impervious to salt, sand, full sun, and capable of survival being watered solely by rainfall, rather harsh growing conditions.  This pretty flowering plant was already growing and thriving on my property, and it seemed to fit the bill, so it is one that I choose to plant in that garden.  Fortunately, perhaps due to the fact the irises are growing in an island surrounded by asphalt, they do not appear to have escaped.  I will mention here that it is not legal to sell this plant in Connecticut, however this plant is still available for purchase online.  There are many other options.  Do not add this plant to your landscape!

Yellow flag iris can often be found naturalized growing in wetland settings, along brooks and streams or in marshes.  In a brook setting you can easily imagine the numerous seeds and seed pods floating down stream where they eventually germinate and create more colonies. Colonies of this plant can alter the flow of water and cause flooding.  In addition, invasive non-native plants have the ability to crowd out native plants that wildlife depends upon to thrive.  In the case of yellow flag iris, the entire plant is poisonous as a food source for animals. Perhaps another reason it remains presently contained within my island of flowers. Soon I will be attempting its removal from that garden, though I will miss its bright sunny presence next spring. I am certain I can find other non-invasive irises to plant in its place. 

HOW TO REMOVE 

For small infestations hand digging with a good strong sharp shovel is best.  The fibrous roots need to be removed in their entirety to prevent regrowth.  Gloves are recommended for handling the roots as resin contained within them can cause skin irritation.  Do NOT use livestock to graze on this plant as it is poisonous for them as a food source.  

If the plant is growing in a pond, First remove and bag any seed pods, then cut the plants at their base below the water line.  Do not compost the seed pods!  That will just spread the plant!  Another method is to cover the colony with a PVC pond liner or heavy tarp being sure to eliminate any air pockets.  Extend the cover a foot beyond the colony.  Bury the edges of the covering and weigh it down securely. It is said that the PVC pond liner can inhibit gas exchange and kill the colony in as little as four to six months.  You will need to monitor the area afterward to be certain there is no post emergence.  

If the plant is growing on dry land, and you want to try an herbicide, a novel method for application on this plant is called wick wiping.  It involves securing a sponge with an elastic band to each end of a pair of kitchen tongs.  Since iris is a monocot like grass is, you need to select a non-specific herbicide that kills grasses as well as broad leaved plants.  Glyphosate is one that is recommended.  You then dip the sponges in the diluted herbicide and wipe the leaves with the sponges on the tongs.  This method cleverly prevents any overspray.

If there is a large colony growing in a wetland or pond setting, there are several water specific herbicides available that are said not to harm wildlife.  You will first need to check to see if a permit is required for their application.

                                   Wineberry AKA Rubus phoenicolasius 

Wineberry is a plant native to China, Japan and Korea.  It was introduced to the U.S. in the 1890's as a breeding stock for raspberries. It is still being used in the United States for that purpose today, though great care is now taken to contain it.  Since its introduction it has spread vigorously throughout the U.S. beginning its spread in the Appalachian Mountains and continuing to spread from there.  At this point wineberry is considered invasive in many states including Connecticut.  The plant grows rapidly forming dense thickets, crowding out native species and filling disturbed areas, preventing other native plants and trees from gaining a foothold. So many ash and oak and hemlock trees have died and fallen throughout our forests in the last several years.  Their loss has left areas of the forest floor open to the sun. Wineberry, barberry, winged euonymus and other invasive shrubs and plants are more than happy to fill those sunny vacancies.  Once they do, the dense shady areas they create can deter those trees from germinating and repopulating our forests. 

Wineberry is related to roses, and of course raspberries.  It is in the Rosaceae family.  When you pick a raspberry or a wineberry, you may think of it as a single fruit, but it is actually a cluster of small fruits, each with its own seed inside capable of germination. The botanical term for this type of fruit is aggregate fruit.  Wineberry is capable of propagating not only by its numerous seeds, which are often distributed throughout the landscape by birds and animals. but as with many other invasive shrubs, it is also capable of spreading through vegetative propagation, when tips of canes that have fallen to the ground take root. In addition, it spreads by shoots coming up from lateral growing roots.  With all those methods of propagation, you can see how this shrub can readily form a thicket. 

Here are some distinguishing characteristics that should help to identify wineberry from native varieties of raspberries.  When you examine the cane of a wineberry, you will notice several longer stiff prickles along the cane along with multitudes of fine long red hairs that make the canes appear red from a distance.  The leaves of wineberry are white on the underside and feel a bit waxy.  They appear on the branches as three heart shaped leaflets growing in alternate fashion along the cane.  As is true of many varieties of raspberries, the first-year canes, called primocanes, grow tall and straight and do not bear flowers or fruit.  The second year those canes, now called flora-canes, form side shoots and those side shoots bear flowers followed by fruit.  The small flowers grow in clusters.  Each five petaled flower is pink to purplish red.  The fruit forms within a distinctive sticky calyx that is covered in fine hairs which exude a sticky fluid.  Because of its sticky nature, the calyx will sometimes have small insects stuck to it.  When the fruit is fully ripe, it is red and also a bit sticky.  When picked, the fruit is hollow on the underside just like a raspberry.  After the fruit is plucked from its hull, the hull left behind on the plant is yellow versus the whiter color hull on a raspberry.  The taste of the fruit is said to be similar to that of a red raspberry but with slightly tarter flavor. Wineberries are perfectly edible and fine for making pie, and jam or, as the name suggests, wine.  

I have yet to encounter this plant or taste its fruit, but I've always found that once you learn about something it is then you begin to notice it, and in some instances, it may have been right under your nose all along.  I was somewhat familiar with this plant from a Facebook post from a group covering native and non-native plant identification.  Now that I have learned even more about this plant, I will definitely be keeping an eye out for it and hope you will too. It is entirely possible that wineberry is yet another invasive plant presently growing somewhere in our town.  We do not want to encourage its growth!

HOW TO REMOVE

Small colonies can be dug out fairly easily as the root system is not terribly tenacious.  Cutting back the foliage repeatedly will also eventually deplete the root system of nutrients eventually killing the plant.  If it has already formed a large hedge or thicket, you may want to consider a foliar spray with an herbicide.  Keep in mind foliar herbicides should be applied late in the growing season when the plant is sending nutrients from its foliage back to the root system.  Though you might believe the best time to try to eradicate a plant with a foliar herbicide is in the spring, when the plant is first emerging, and still small, it is at that point that the nutrients are traveling in the opposite direction from the roots to the leaves making the herbicide relatively ineffective.  It is in the late summer when the process reverses and nutrients are being passed from the crown of the plant back to the roots for winter storage that a foliar spray should be applied because the plant is in the growing stage where it will carry the herbicide to its roots where it can effectively work to kill the plant.

                         

  Watercress AKA Nasturtium officinale  

When I first saw this plant growing along the edges of Merrick Brook years ago. I thought "Oh wow, it's watercress!"  Now that I have been researching invasive plants for a while, I have to admit I was pretty disappointed to find this plant on the list of potential outlaws. It's Latin name Nasturtium officinale makes you wonder what they were thinking when they named it. Its flowers and foliage don't resemble those of a Nasturtium in the least.  They are distant cousins though, and both plants have that pleasant peppery taste when nibbled.  You often find the word officinale incorporated into part of a Latin name for a plant. It simply means it is a plant used in medicine herbalism or cookery.  Watercress, which is native to Eurasia, is one of the oldest known leafy vegetables to have been consumed by humans.  Now found in many locations across the globe, it was introduced to America in the 18th century.  

The plant is in the mustard family, and like others in that family, it is considered a cruciferous vegetable because the four petals of the flowers, which form in clusters, resemble a cross or crucifix.  If you look closely at the flowers of Garlic Mustard, as well as kale, turnips, broccoli, and radishes you will see the same flower formation.  All of these are considered cruciferous vegetables, and being so, they are quite healthy veggies to consume. I am going to insert a consumption warning here.  

If you are planning to eat watercress found in the wild, first of all, as with any plant you might be foraging, be certain you have the proper identification.  Also, in the case of watercress, be certain you are harvesting from an extremely clean water source.  Otherwise, the plant could contain giardia, a parasite that beavers are notorious for carrying.  Perhaps even worse, if the water has been contaminated by manure, you may ingest a parasite called liver fluke, and that doesn't sound at all pleasant!  

The peppery flavor of the plant is actually part of the plant's defense system.  It is caused by two compounds contained within the plant that combine whenever the plant is injured.  For all its attempts at self-defense though, that zippy flavor does not stop ducks, muskrats or deer from eating the leaves.  Those particular herbivores seem to have gourmet taste, and they are one of the contributing factors to the plant's redistribution and spread along our waterways. Watercress is also a prolific producer of seed, which is another means of its spread. Portions of the plant can also be dislodged and carried downstream during heavy water flow where they can take root and form new colonies.  

I have never seen an exceptionally large colony of this plant in Merrick brook, or in the Shetucket River, but this plant does have the capacity of creating a rapid growing blanket of greenery that floats on top of the water, crowding out native vegetation and many of the things that rely on native vegetation to survive.  A large enough mat can deplete the water of oxygen. If you have a large infestation of this plant, you should make an attempt at its control.  

HOW TO REMOVE

This plant can be hand pulled very carefully so as to capture the entire root system and prevent regrowth.  After being pulled it should be bagged and removed from the site.  It is fine to just deposit it in the trash.  

When writing about various invasive plants and including a "how to remove" section I decided to include all of the recommended options provided by reputable sources, so please don't shoot the messenger! I am not a big fan of using herbicides and putting them in direct contact with a body of water seems almost unconscionable, but there are instances when their use is the lesser of two evils, and there are herbicide mixtures designed specifically for aquatic use. If you are dealing with a particularly large infestation of watercress that is crowding out other plants and depleting the water of oxygen, you may want to try one of the aquatic herbicides

     Autumn Olive AKA Elaeagnus umbellate & Russian Olive      Elaeagnus augustifolia 

Autumn olive and Russian olive are both hardy branching shrubs that grow in a form that resembles bush honeysuckle.  All of these shrubs produce a profusion of berries. Bush honeysuckle, autumn and Russian olive are all considered invasive, but should you wish to identify them, an easy way to tell the "olive" shrubs apart from bush honeysuckle is to examine a branch.  The bush honeysuckle has leaves that grow in opposite fashion, directly across from each other along the stem.  Both the Russian Olive, native to Eastern Europe and Central Asia, and Autumn Olive, native to China, Japan and Korea, have leaves that grow in alternate fashion along their stems.  If you snip a stem or branch from any honeysuckle, you will find a tiny hole in the center of the branch.  The branch of a honeysuckle shrub has a very narrow hollow portion in the center.  

Russian Olive was introduced in the early 1900's and Autumn Olive a bit earlier around 1830. Both were imported for their value as a wildlife habitat, as well as for erosion control, and their ornamental appeal.  The two "olives", which are technically not olives at all, readily escaped cultivation.  At this point they have both been declared an invasive species over most of North America and Europe. Positive identification of which "olive" species you are dealing with does not really matter because elimination strategies for either plant are similar.  In fact, the plants themselves have more similarities than differences.  For the sake of accuracy though, you can tell the two apart most easily when the shrub is in either its flowering or fruiting stage.  Autumn Olive has white or creamy yellow flowers.  When the fruit is mature it is red with silvery speckles or scales on its skin.  The Russian Olive has brighter yellow flowers and a fruit that is more yellow orange with silver speckles when mature.  Other more subtle differences are in the shape of the leaves, with the leaves of Russian Olive narrower in form than those of the Autumn Olive.  Russian Olive foliage appears more silvery due to the fine fuzz like hairs on both the top and bottom sides of the leaves whereas Autumn Olive has fuzz primarily on the underside of the leaves.  Both of the shrubs have thorns but they are fewer in number on Autumn olives.  Both bear abundant fruit which is edible and nutritious for birds, wild animals and, when the fruit is fully ripened, people as well.  The fruit of either variety is usually fully ripened by October.  Autumn Olive fruit will be bright red with silvery specks.  It usually gets sweeter after a frost and it remains on the shrub through November.  The fruit of Russian olive may not have as desirable a flavor or texture.  If you intend to eat this fruit please be certain you have made a positive identification.  Do not confuse the plant with bush honeysuckle as that fruit considered toxic for human consumption.  If these plants provide such an abundant food source, why should we attempt to eliminate them?  The thing is with their rapid growth and prolific seed production they out-compete many native plants.  They also have the ability to increase the nitrogen level in the soil in their vicinity.  The increased nitrogen level benefits autumn or Russian olive, but other plants that are native to our region may not find all that nitrogen beneficial.  

HOW TO REMOVE

If you happen to have them, goats really like to forage this plant.  They also love Multiflora Rose, and a variety of other invasive species.  If you allow goats to consume Autumn or Russian Olive plants while adding other non-invasive forage options, eventually the alternative forage options will crowd out the Autumn or Russian Olive eliminating those invasive plants.  If you are not fortunate enough to own goats, hand pulling of small plants is recommended.  This is best done after a good soaking rain which softens the soil allowing the roots to be pulled more easily.  Try to remove the entire root system as this plant may regrow from fragments left behind.   Repeated cutting of shrubs will eventually deplete the root system, but you need to be vigilant, continually cutting back regrowth.

During their active growing season, especially during the later part of their growing season when the crown of the plant is passing nutrients back down to the roots, the shrub should be cut as low to the ground as possible.  Follow up with an herbicide application to the cut stump to prevent regrowth.  Triclopyr is the preferred herbicide to use to eliminate this plant.  It should be used in its undiluted form for the cut stump treatment.  Another method for herbicide application is to prune the shrub back to a lower level and use triclopyr as a foliar spray when the plant resprouts and has fully formed leaves.  The leaves are what take in the poison.  Cutting the plant back first allows for the use of less herbicide during foliar application and it also makes it easier to reach all parts of the plant with the spray.  Be sure to follow the dilution instructions and all other instructions on the product's container.  Always wear protective clothing, and spray herbicide on a calm day.  

 Invasive Plant Walk Talk & Cut at the Scotland Public Library

On August 30, 2025, our group of twelve or so joined up with Rose Hiskes and Dr. Charlotte Pyle of The Connecticut Invasive Plant Working Group to learn more about invasive plants and native plants as well.  The day was clear and absolutely perfect. As we hiked along the trail, I came to realize how enjoyable it was to meet with like-minded people all of whom were well informed about the impact invasive plants are having on our landscape.  Rose and Charlotte were especially knowledgeable, providing us with botanical terminology and various ways to detect some of the invasive species no matter the season.  In addition to the invasive plants, they pointed out some exceptional native specimens growing along the trail.  

The trail along the boardwalk at the library is a soothing and peaceful spot.  The boardwalk itself is truly special, definitely worthy of preservation, as the boards used in its construction were purchased years ago by town residents and inscribed with their names or names of their loved ones, past and present residents of our town.  Unfortunately, over the years, the entrance to the boardwalk became so overgrown that you might not even realize the trail existed. 

After our informative walk with Rose and Charlotte, and a wonderful lunch which included a variety of delicious pizzas, a generous donation from our town's nip fund, we returned to the trail armed with energy, clippers, and various brush cutting tools.  About two hours later our group amassed a huge pile of invasive bittersweet, multiflora rose, and burning bush branches. I am excited to report that the opening to the trail is now once again visible!

After posting various "Wanted Reward for Outlaw Plant Posters" for invasive plants linking to articles this website, I was asked "What exactly is the reward?"  I can now affirm there are numerous rewards.  The camaraderie of working together with people is probably the most important one.  There is also the reward of accomplishment you feel when you step back and see the impact your work has made.  Then there is the reward of acquired knowledge.  In addition, a little bit of exercise can also be kind of rewarding.  Depending on which side of 60 you fall on, you might feel a tad achy the following morning from stretching to cut vines and from pulling out roots, but even that actually feels pretty good.

We will be meeting again in the not-too-distant future.  Feel free to join us next time if you missed the opportunity the first time.  I will keep you posted as to the date on the Scotland Residents FB page.  At the next meeting there will be no limit to the number of participants.  Stay as long as you can.  You don't need arrive at the beginning or to stay to the end of the work period.  Any help you can offer will be greatly appreciated.  Let's work together and get this trail back into shape!