How To Decide What Native Plants To Add To Your Landscape Continued

This short blog entry is a follow-up to my last entry on deciding what native plants to include in your landscape.  Once you have an idea of what you are looking to achieve in your landscape and have decided whether your property will support your goals, it is time to look at a native plant list to see what your potential plant options may be.  I was going to attempt to provide a list of plants by type, color, growing conditions, etc. but thankfully discovered that this has already been perfectly accomplished by Victoria Wallace and Alyssa Siegal-Miles of UCONN Extension.   Back in 2021 they created an exceptional resource in the form of a 44-page color illustrated guide called Connecticut Native Plant and Sustainable Landscaping, and I am excited to say it is available as a PDF to download by clicking the link below.

UCONN Native and Sustainable Landscaping Guide

 How To Decide What Native Plants To Add To Your Landscape

While you can throw a dart at a native plant list and plant whatever plant the dart lands on, provided it lands on the list at all, there may be a better way.  Being native varieties, most plants on a native plant list will be hardy and require little care, so that makes one consideration easy.  One of the next things you might want to do when considering the addition of a native plant is to ask yourself "what I am trying to achieve"?  Do I want to add color?  Am I seeking a plant that will add winter interest?  Am I looking for something that will produce food such as nuts, berries or other fruit?  Do I want something fragrant?  Do I want a plant that will spread or one that is easily controlled?  Perhaps you are hoping to attract bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, or other wildlife such as deer? Maybe you are looking for a plant that that dog gone deer will not readily consume.  The height requirement and growing speed are also factors to take into consideration.  The decision as to whether to plant a tree, shrub or individual perennial plants is an important one.  Shrubs can create a nice backdrop, but they can also block out things in your landscape that you find attractive as they grow and fill in. Trees have a wide and deep root system that can harm foundations or septic systems if planted too nearby. It is important to know how tall as well as how wide a shrub or a tree will become in the long term, not only so as to keep these plants from preventing moisture build-up on any architectural elements on your property but also taking into consideration how they will appear years after you plant them. Shrubs and trees can be difficult to remove if you decide you are not pleased with their appearance years later.

Next consider the microclimate of the location where you will be planting.  Is there sun, shade or a mix of both as the day progresses.  It is a wet area or a dry one. Is the soil rich and loamy or more of a sandy composition.  Is it a wooded location or on the edge of the woodland.  Perhaps your location is in more of an open field. All of these things are considerations to keep in mind when choosing plants for your landscape.

 

 Herbicide Update

After a visit to a local Tractor supply store, and perusing their stock of herbicides, I realized how confusing the section of pre-mixed herbicides has become.  When selecting an herbicide, the active ingredient is the important thing.  Using names such Round Up, or Brush Be Gone is no longer an indication of which active ingredients are contained in the bottle.  I will soon be adding information to this blog regarding various invasive plants, and methods for their removal. To avoid confusion, when you read the section of How To Remove - with herbicides (should you decide their use if appropriate in your situation) I will be listing the active ingredient necessary, for example Glyphosate, Triclopyr, Dicamba, or perhaps 2,4-D.  Most, if not all, can be purchased in a concentrated form and used that way when applied directly to a cut stump.  They can also be mixed to the appropriate strength if they are to be used as a foliar spray.  Carefully follow the mixing directions on the bottle.  Pre-mixed versions of herbicides are also fine for use as foliar sprays but be certain to check the label to determine which active ingredients are in there.

WE NEED YOUR HELP

 Help our group come up with a catchy name. We are seeking a name that forms an acronym.  Vote for one of the examples below, or feel free to create your own example or examples. There is a list of some alphabetized words below to help get you started.

1. Scotland Environmental Protection Action League- SEPAL

2. Scotland Against Invasive Plants- SAIP

3. Group Removing Invasive Plants In Town- GRIP IT

4. Scotland Limiting Invasive Plants In Town- SLIP IT

5. or just Scotland Removing Invasive Plants- SLIP

6. Remove Invasive Plants In Town - RIP IT

7. Scotland Opposing Invasive Landscape - SOIL

8. Save Our Important Landscape- SOIL

9. We Ever Eradicate Damaging Species- WEED

10. Scotland Neighborhood Invasive Plants Provide Eradication & Removal- SNIPPER

11. Scotland Neighborhood Invasive Plant eradication- SNIPE

12. Invasive Noxious Species And Needs Eradication- INSANE

13. Or one that some in town may be able to identify with- Group Removing Invasive Plants Environmentally or- GRIPE 

A And Against Action Awareness Activity Advocacy Assembly

B Biodiversity Benefit Body

C Combat Campaign Council Cause Control Change Caring Concerned Citizens

D Damage Do Does

E Ever Environment Ecosystem Ecological Eradicate

F Fight For Form From Force

G Group

H Help Habitat Has

I Invasive Impact Introduced Improve Infestation Initiative

J Job

K Knowledge Know

L Leave Limit Local Land Landscape

M Management Manages

N Native Nature Neighborhood Noxious Needs Now

O Oppose Organization Our

P Plant(s) Please Protect Prevent Provide People Please

Q Quick

R Remove Residents Resources Reason Raise (s)

S Scotland Species Save

T Town Take Task Threat Terrestrial To Terminate

U Understand Under

V Volunteer 

W Working Weed Warrior We

X ?

Y Your

Z ?

 What Are Invasive Plants Versus Native Plants, and Why Should We Care?

The first criteria for an invasive plant is that it is not a native plant to an area.  A Connecticut non-native plant is a plant that did not exist here in Connecticut before European arrival. A date of 1500 is used as an estimate of the year of European arrival. A native plant would be one that was growing here before the time of European arrival, pre-1500.  Over the course of many years native plants evolved gradually to support native insects, birds, wildlife, and people.  While some imported plants support these as well, and not all non-native plants are considered invasive, the likelihood of an imported plant becoming invasive is always a possibility because the imported plant may not be a desirable food source for native herbivores or insects.  Therefore, there is nothing to keep the imported plant's population in check.  Many plants now considered invasive were introduced intentionally from other countries where they were grown as food or for medicinal use, some had ornamental purposes, others were used in erosion control, and some were even introduced to support our wildlife. Other invasive plants hitched a ride unbeknownst to the carrier via seeds in contaminated soil or hidden among cargo. When these plants were intentionally imported for their various uses, they were kept in gardens and cultivated. They did not yet earn their stripes as being invasive. It took years for some of these plants to escape cultivation and reach their present invasive status.  Many of the plants that have made it to the present Connecticut invasive plant list are prolific producers of seed or have root systems capable of spreading long distances and sending up numerous new shoots.  Many examples begin their rapid growth cycle early in the season before our native plants do.   Therefore, they deprive native plants of sunlight and even some of the minerals required for their growth.  Some invasive plants exude chemicals that prevent growth of other plants near them.  Invasive species of plants are more pervasive now then they have ever been in the past. Some of this is due to vast fields of farmland that have been abandoned.  Areas of disturbed soil caused by construction also create a potential new home for invasive species. Some invasive species or their cultivars are still being sold in nurseries and planted by unsuspecting homeowners.  Many of these cultivars retain their ability to become invasive.  The plants can spread by seed eaten by birds or wildlife then dropped onto new areas of your land or to adjacent forest land where you did not originally intend for these plants to colonize.  

At this point, some invasive plants have become so widespread in Connecticut that they are likely here to stay, but with increased human awareness, their population can hopefully be managed. It would be ideal if we could all work together to prevent invasive plants from creating monocultures throughout our town, one where they take over and crowd out our native plants. Preventing the spread of invasive plants is beneficial not only for the survival of native plants and wildlife but it will also benefit all of us as residents of this town.  Spread of invasive plants can ruin agricultural land, choke off waterways, or in some cases increase soil erosion.  It is surprising how the rapid growth cycle of invasives can impede the growth of native plants even trees as strong as Oaks!  The presence of some invasive plants has been proven to reduce property values. Spread of these plants impacts our recreational opportunities by limiting access to woodland and open space where we can hike, fish, camp, or hunt.  I have seen woodland paths completely choked off by Japanese Barberry bushes, to the point where they are virtually impenetrable!  Open space for passive recreation in Scotland, our forests, our brooks, our rivers, this is what makes our town a uniquely special place to live.  I hope I can inspire you to share my interest in caring for our land!

My intention is to introduce a different invasive plant in each of my posts.  I truly feel it is a good thing to be aware of these plants and know both their positive and negative attributes.  It helps to be able to identify each of these plants so that we don't unintentionally aid in their spread.

The majority of acreage in our state is privately owned.  If you own land and are willing to take action to control these invasive plants on at least a portion of that land you will be making a positive impact on the ecosystem and make our town more attractive.  For folks in town who own large tracts of land, it is possible that you may be able to obtain help from a land conservation grant available from the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service in Killingly.  I have been provided a contact Bill Purcell @ 860-412-5258.  You may also visit this page of the USDA website for further information. https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/programs-initiatives/csp-conservation-stewardship-program/connecticut/connecticut-conservation   

Even if you have no intention of removing these plants, make yourself aware of them because some cultivars of invasive plants are still being sold in nurseries, and you can at least avoid adding these to your landscape.   For more information here is a link to a video of a CT state forester addressing and discussing the invasive plant situation in Connecticut.  https://www.ctinsider.com/connecticut/article/ct-invasive-plants-deep-barberry-19433321.php 

                       Connecticut Wildfires Versus Controlled Burns

 

              Photo of Wildfire Natchaug State Forest Photo Credit DEEP

All of the recent press about the devastating wildfires in California made me think about the role invasive plants could play in the risk of spreading wildfires in Connecticut. Research reveals invasive plants do pose an increased risk! That is yet another reason for as much of their elimination as possible. We experienced a period of extreme drought, hot dry air, and windy conditions last summer. This led to 50 forest fires in our state. One of those let to a fatality. Eventually the fires were contained, but at great expense and not without leaving widespread damage. Forest fires are becoming more common in Connecticut. There is no reason to believe that the hot dry and windy weather pattern won't happen again.  Weather patterns like this may perhaps occur with more frequency.  The above photo from 2020 shows a wildfire burning, and out of control at the Natchaug State Park in Connecticut. You can see how the fire travels along the ground being fed by leaf litter and brush. At this point, in addition to invasive plants, our forests contain numerous dead fallen trees adding to the risk of these fires spreading out of control.  Below is information regarding an age-old method of forest maintenance that also involves the use of fire. 

              Photo of a Connecticut Controlled Burn on Connecticut's Coast Photo                                                 Credit Connecticut Public

Prescribed Burning or Cultural Burning was a method long practiced by the Indigenous population of the Americas.  Fire was a tool used for many purposes. One of those purposes was to condition the landscape for a variety of uses. Prescribed burns created a patchwork of contrasting landscapes, a mixture of open grassy fields to attract grazing animals and forested habitats for hunting various other wildlife, or nut gathering. Areas for gathering other foods such as berries or herbs were also maintained using fire. These carefully controlled fires helped to clear underbrush and downed branches and trees making travel easier, while increasing visibility through the forest. It is well documented that these Indigenous Prescribed Burns occurred throughout our country with regularity. The practice also left the landscape less conducive to uncontrolled forest fires. The resulting ash from the fires kept the earth fertile. Upon European settlement, Prescribed Burns were gradually abandoned, at first restricted to areas populated by Indigenous communities. As those communities dwindled through disease or displacement, the practice was nearly abandoned completely. With European methods for farming and creating townships, fire became increasingly perceived as a danger. Now that much of our land has been abandoned for farming purposes, and has been reclaimed by the forest, thoughts by people involved in land management have returned to the practice of Prescribed Burns. Several of these have occurred recently in the state of Connecticut. The CT DEEP has been using controlled burns in place of herbicides to restore grassy habitat that has become infested with invasive plants, and to provide various ecosystems essential for the existence of a variety of wildlife. For more information on this practice click on the following link https://portal.ct.gov/deep/forestry/native-american-use-of-prescribed-fire

Thoughts on Herbicides

 

Almost all of the" How to Remove" sections included with the invasive species varieties listed on this blog include an option for removal involving the use of herbicides.   I don't advocate herbicides as the first option for removal, but I do believe there are situations where herbicides can be a useful tool when they are used properly and in moderation.  Their overuse through the years had led to some undesirable circumstances.  Therefore, great care should be taken when considering their use on your land.  

 

There are many varieties of herbicides out there.  Here I discuss a few of the more popular among them.  Although at first sight they may all seem the same, that is not true.  The variety of herbicides sold have different active ingredients and they work in different ways.  Some are broad range and kill grasses and broad-leaf plants.  Others only kill broad leaf plants.   Before considering their use do some research to find the one that works best for the plant you are attempting to control and its situation on your property.   Always read the label and follow the instructions.

 

For your safety when spraying or using any herbicide, always wear a face mask, and a shield or some type of eye protection.  Wear waterproof gloves and protective clothing.  Change your clothing and wash thoroughly after herbicide application.  Most importantly wash your hands as they can contact your mouth or eyes! Be certain to make spray applications on a calm day to prevent over drift both onto yourself and to desirable vegetation!

 

Round-up- Glyphosate

 

This herbicide is capable of killing both grasses and a variety of weeds. There are health risks associated with its use, some proven with certainty and others not yet proven.  Glyphosate is listed as the active ingredient in Round-up.  Some versions of Round-up also contain additives for example dyes so that you can see the areas sprayed, or additives to help the glyphosate cling to the foliage.  One thing that has been proven without controversy over the years since 1974 when Round-up was first marketed by Monsanto is that numerous weeds have become resistant.  This resistance has likely been caused by Glyphosate's regular use in spraying agricultural fields planted with genetically engineered herbicide resistant crops such as corn, soybeans, wheat, alfalfa, and others.  As you can imagine the repeated high volume spraying of herbicide resistant crops with Glyphosate has led to a gradual evolution of the weeds, and many have successfully evolved one way or another to become Round-up resistant weeds. This in turn has led to crops engineered to be resistant to an ever-increasing variety of herbicides.  Eventually the weeds will become resistant to these as well.  That said, this herbicide is still very effective for home use.  It can be sprayed in proper dilution on vegetation or used in concentrated form on cut trees or shrubs to prevent regrowth from the stump.

 

Dicamba

 

Dicamba is a selective herbicide often marketed for use on lawns.  Being a selective herbicide, it kills a variety of broad-leafed plants but causes no harm to grasses.  It is another variety of herbicide presently used in spraying agricultural fields. Even if Dicamba is properly applied to a field, there is the danger of this herbicide vaporizing and forming a drifting gas.  This danger, activated by hot humid weather, can continue for up to three days after dicamba's application to a field.  The gas vapor can rise and travel, drifting a distance on a hot breezy day and damaging nearby trees and plants in its path.  At this time, the danger, if any, that this gaseous drift may pose to people or animals is unknown. If you are planning to use an herbicide containing Dicamba please keep this in mind and use it on a cool and calm day! Preferably on a series of cool days under 85 degrees to prevent potential vaporization.  Be aware of the possibility of its potential drift during and after application and potential damage to surrounding vegetation.  This herbicide will also prevent regrowth if applied to cut trees and shrubs when squirted or brushed on to them.

 

Brush Be Gone- Triclopyr

 

Triclopyr is the active ingredient in Brush-Be-Gone.  It is another selective herbicide that like dicamba kills many broad leaf woody vines and plants but will not harm surrounding grasses.  It too can be sprayed, but like any of the other herbicides mentioned above, Triclopyr can also be used by squirting the concentrated liquid into cuts made through the bark and cambium layer of a tree or shrub. It can also be applied to a cut stump to help prevent regrowth.